Hello, hello, hello to anyone who is still following this blog even though I haven’t 
written in it since July.  At first I didn’t write because I was busy DOING THINGS, 
and then I didn’t write because it had been so long since I had written, but now I am 
determined to write again.  
In late July, I took a trip to the East Coast to visit family.  While making my travel 
plans, I discovered that the cheapest combination of flights and rental car was to 
fly to Charlotte, NC and return from Newark, NJ.  On discovering this, my first thought 
was “I can finally go to Biltmore!!!!”.  The whole four years that Susan was at Duke I 
tried to finagle a trip to the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, NC but it never worked out.  
My chance at last!  I booked a room at the Glo Best Western in Asheville and a tour 
ticket at Biltmore including lunch reservations in the former stable that is now a 
barbecue restaurant.   
When I arrived in Charlotte I picked up my rental car and put the Glo in my 
Google Maps with the Route Option of Avoid Highways.  I usually do this on a road 
trip since interstate highways are pretty boring.  This was a mistake in western North 
Carolina.  The roads that are not the interstate are narrow, not maintained, winding, 
and take you right past the porches of people who give you squinty-eyed suspicious 
looks.  At one point I drove on a gravel road through a creek.  Lesson learned.
 
On Sunday nights at 9 pm in Asheville, dining options are severely limited, but 
luckily for me, Chili’s was still open.  I love Chili’s.  I sat at the bar and had a terrific 
margarita and who cares what else.  I set my alarm and went to bed, happily 
dreaming about velvet drapes and oil portraits.  I woke up in the middle of the night 
because my left big toe was on fire. 
I guess my shoes had been too tight on the plane, and if you’ve ever had an 
ingrown toenail, you know the pain.  I took some Advil and went back to sleep.  
In the morning, I found a Walgreens, bought some Epsom salts, and soaked my 
toe in the ice bucket.  And that’s why you should always use the plastic bag liner 
that comes with the ice bucket. 
The Biltmore estate was even better than I had anticipated.  The road from the 
gate to the estate twists and turns through the manicured grounds and is something 
like two miles long.  I parked and found myself in the midst of two touring groups 
headed up to the house: a group of rowdy black women in “Oh Sip It’s a Girl’s Trip!” 
t-shirts and a big group of family members who looked like they were thoroughly sick 
of each other in blue polyester “Reynolds Family Trip 2021” t-shirts.  I don’t think 
anyone had consulted with the Reynolds family members under the age of 16 about 
whether they might enjoy an estate tour. 
It was an extremely hot and humid day, and you had to stand in line in full sun 
to be admitted to the house, but upon reaching the foyer, you could stay in the 
blessedly air-conditioned house as long as you liked.  I lurked about inside for 
two and a half hours, taking pointless photos of furnishings, right up until my late 
lunch reservation in the former stable.
 
After a delicious pulled-pork sandwich with Carolina vinegar sauce, the only 
correct barbecue sauce, and several beers, I wandered around the beautiful 
and spacious grounds, looking for shade, and getting increasingly lost.  I was 
completely on my own for half an hour until I stumbled upon a groundskeeper 
who directed me back to the house. 
As I made my way back to the house, the sky clouded over and the weather 
cooled, which was good, but thunder and lightning began, which was bad. 
I booked it back to my car and got there just as it began to pour.
Later that evening in downtown Asheville I found a restaurant that reminded 
me strongly of the restaurant at Deep South Glass in the movie Sweet Home 
Alabama.   It served old southern favorites such as fried chicken and bourbon 
Old-Fashioneds, but with fancy descriptions and fancy prices.
 
The next day I drove to Richmond, Virginia (after removing the Avoid Highways 
route option on Google maps).  It was a pleasant drive, and I was listening to a 
great audiobook: Project Hail Mary by Andy Weir.  As I approached downtown 
Richmond on the highway, I noticed a low, dark cloud directly ahead, and then 
suddenly it was raining ridiculously hard.  I couldn’t see a thing, so I pulled over 
on the side of the road and put my hazards on, as did many other drivers, which 
made me feel less like an overreacting Californian who can’t drive in the rain, 
which, to be fair, I am.
 
Eventually the rain let up a little bit, so I slowly drove to the next exit, at which 
point it began to pour again.  I pulled into the first parking lot, which luckily for 
me belonged to the Captain Don Julio Seafood Buffet restaurant.  As soon as it 
let up a little, I got out and scooted over to the restaurant. 
 

Captain Don’s was decorated in a nautical motif, with big captain’s chairs 
and tables around which families were busily chowing down on plates piled 
high with crab legs.  The seafood buffet was too intimidating for me, so I 
ordered a fish taco platter and very much enjoyed not driving in the storm.

Richmond is a great city for just hacking around, which is what I set out to do on my first morning there.  But it was just too hot and humid for my unacclimatized self to be walking outdoors.  I was beginning to feel dangerously overheated when I spotted the Institute for Contemporary Art at Virginia Commonwealth University, which is a big name for a very small museum.  It was small, but the Institute had the three things that really matter to me in a museum – air-conditioning, toilets, and a water fountain. 
There were a whole gaggle of arty-looking youths hanging out at the front desk.   
I was the only patron.  One of the youths peeled away from the others and 
literally followed a step behind me as I looked through the galleries.  He never 
spoke, just hovered and poked at his iPad.  It was very disconcerting.  I mean, 
I have been to a LOT of art museums of all sizes, and I have never before had 
my own personal security guard.  It seems unlikely that I looked like a threat to 
the artworks, so I guess he was just super-bored?  Maybe working on his thesis 
project about how sweaty older women interact with multimedia collage? 
Annoyed by my guard, but not ready to face the heat again, I hid in the ladies’ 
room and played Solitaire on my phone for a while.  I walked back to my Airbnb, 
got my rental car, and drove to the much bigger art museum, the Virginia Museum 
of Fine Arts, where I spent the rest of the day in the air-conditioned comfort being 
ignored by the guards, as is usual. 
As I drove around Richmond, I noticed that the monuments to 
Confederate Generals on Monument Avenue were mostly gone.  
Only the plinths remained.  As a white woman who has never endured 
racism, it was surprising to me how liberated I felt seeing those 
empty plinths, so I can only imagine how good it feels for victims of 
systemic racism.
Susan joined me and we had a really sweaty walk along the James.  We saw 
some very interesting murals and some Passages youth campers whose van 
had the superb motto “We Make Kids Tired!”.  As I reached my heat threshold, 
we found a craft brewery.  I often joke with my brother that you could throw a rock 
anywhere in Richmond and hit a craft brewery, but it isn’t really a joke.  Before we 
entered the taproom, we both guessed how many men would have facial hair.  
We both wildly underestimated.
Ellen joined us, and we went with my sister-in-law Shelby and my niece Stella to the 
Poe Museum.  My expectations were low, and I was pleasantly surprised.  It's a very
cool museum that I would recommend to anyone.
We spent the afternoon at Hollywood Cemetery with two of my online friends from 
cemetery class. Backstory: I’ve always loved cemeteries, so imagine my excitement 
when I discovered that Atlas Obscura offered a four-part seminar taught by a Harvard 
religious studies professor who has also worked as a cemetery director. My zoom 
classmates were from all over the country and we mostly just shared anecdotes about 
our favorite cemeteries.
Two of my classmates, Rebecca and Kim, live in Richmond and since I knew I was 
headed to Richmond in late summer, I asked if they would give me a tour of their 
favorite cemetery, and they graciously agreed. I showed up with Shelby, Stella, Susan 
and Ellen and the seven of us wandered all over Hollywood cemetery. Even the rain 
did not deter us. Rebecca and Kim are self-described goths and they shared some great 
Richmond stories with us. It was a really fun afternoon.
  | 
| Rebecca said many people believe this tomb contains a vampire. | 
Doug and Shelby also took us to a Flying Squirrels baseball game (a feeder team for 
the San Francisco Giants!), to an enormous farmer’s market, to the five-star Jefferson 
Hotel, and to a French café and vintage shops in Carytown.  It was a great week, Doug 
and Shelby and Stella are great hosts, and it all just made me want to spend more time there.